Unsurprisingly, there is a Peruvian soccer league, and Cusco has a team. Today, they played a team called the "Sports Boys," which is their first problem right there. I went with a couple of Quebecois folks, just in from Bolivia. They seemed skeptical at the invite, but, in the spirit of traveling, were really up for anything.
The stadium is basically a huge slab of concrete, the middle of which has been hollowed out, with a less-than-impressive futbol pitch placed smack in the middle. Seats were basically just concrete stairs, which weren't terribly comfortable, but which made entering and exiting much easier than at your typical American sports arena. Unusually, the sun was shining today, which was delightful but which also made the three layers of clothing I had on more than a little uncomfortable. I managed to strip off the alpaca sweater, which lowered my core body temperature by a few degrees.
There was no clock - time was kept on the field, though they started promptly at 3pm, which made guessing the time remaining relatively easy. Nor was there a jumbotron, which on balance was probably a good thing. The crowd disagreed with just about every single call against the Cusqueñans, and replaying some of them over and over would probably have prompted some direct spectator involvement. As it was, there were about 20 or 30 uniformed riot police, complete with shields, stationed at points around the field, in case anyone got any ideas. No one did, and their main function turned out to be forming a human tunnel with their shields to protect the visiting team from the water balloons that several people had apparently carried in with the sole purpose of throwing them at the Sports Boys at halftime. A good use for riot gear, in my estimation.
The most vocal section of fans was behind one of the goals, and it stretched from the bottom of the stands to the top. They waved, inexplicably, a flag with a picture of Che on it, and sang and jumped the entire game. Every now and then someone in their midst would set off a cherry bomb, for which the section would obligingly give room. After the explosion, the people in the group would flow back together as if by collective magnetism, and resume jumping and singing.
The game itself was enjoyable, though the second half was a little punchless. The Cusqueñans really overmatched the Sports Boys, and they scored their first goal, a not strongly but accurately struck ball from about 25 yards out that swerved into the goal to the keeper's right. Not long after that, the Sports Boys had a man sent off for violent conduct. Then, early in the second half, another Sports Boy was sent off for his second cardable offense, and that was pretty much the game. Cusco scored again not long after that, a chip shot from about 18 yards out that caught the keeper off his line. Until about the 89th minute, Cusco squandered the few chances they managed to create, and the crowd began to give them a little grief. For most of the second half, the crowd's main amusement was in watching the somewhat hapless and poorly supported striker for the Sports Boys, who, by about the 70th minute, was itching to call a taxi. But in the 89th minute Cusco scored again, a well-struck ball from the left of the arc that squibbed into the goal, just inside the far post. So that made everyone happy.
This Wednesday I start the hike to Macchu Picchu. Most equipment still requires purchasing/renting, which I will probably do tomorrow. If I'm efficient, I might be able to sneak in a city tour in the afternoon, to see more ruins. I have to admit that I'm getting a bit stir-crazy/homesick, and really can't wait to get on with the second half of my trip.
Also, interesting developments in Madison. Looks like, for now at least, protesters are holding the Capitol building, with the approval of the police. I hope, for the sake of the state and its workers, that Walker and the Republicans lose this.
Be well, everyone.
Sports Boys ranks slightly above Sports Girls, in their case anyway.
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